My year-old car has started to blow blue smoke from the exhaust when starting after sitting overnight or longer on cold days. The smoke stops within a few seconds. I assume this means that oil is dripping into a combustion chamber and burning off, and that the rings are sealing better when the engine gets warm. The smoke is embarrassing more than anything else. Is there a cheap, easy way to reduce the smoke? I would suggest thicker oil. That should reduce the symtoms.
Be careful though, it might put some extra strain on your oil pump. They get old and hard, and no longer stop oil from running down the stem of the valves. Having said all this, cheap is relative. Is this a cheap repair? These seals prevent oil from leaking down the valve stems into the combustion chambers.
As the vehicle sits after being operated, oil accumulates in the cylinders, and when the engine is restarted later, the accumulated oil burns off. One thing you might try at the next oil change is use one of these high-mileage motor oils, such as Valvoline Max-Life. Year, make, model would be helpful as different engines have different seal configurations.
One inexpensive solution, switch to synthetic oil. These lubricants smoke very little when they burn….
How to Stop Engine Valve Seals From Leaking
Thicker oil may not stop smoking at startup. It could; but not always. If it smokes for longer than five seconds, it might help a little. The car is 12 years old…why waste the money. As for using a thicker oil.
The problems it may cause outweigh the little difference the thicker oil will make. A car that old may not be cost-efective to fix. A puff of blue smoke on startup is almost always a leakdown of oil past the valve guides.Alcatel 3 2019 gsmarena
I would get an estimate anyway. I had a Chev Impala which had this and just kept driving it, since the rest of the engine was in good shape. My son sold it with overmiles on it and it probably still running. It may not pass an emission test if your state requires such a thing.
Make sure you go for the test with a warmed up engine. As long as the heads are off, do the whole job. The cheapest way is to try those high-mileage oils. They include additives that will soften and swell old seals.
The next try is to replace the valve stem seals. This can be done without removing the cylinder head. But should only be attempted by a skilled mechanic.
It would require using an adapter to have shop air hold the valves in place while removing the spring retainer and spring to get to the seal under them.New Posts. Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you. Members Profile. Post Reply. Yeah, you should be good for a few years but I did have an engine where the bits covered the pick up screen after maybe only 20 years. It could be that the parts you got are better than the ones I had.Jquery sort json object alphabetically
Back in the fifties or sixties I don't think the seals gave a problem. It must have been the junk they were supplying in the eighties. I should have posted this info on the new type of seal sooner but either I didn't read it or clue on quick enough. That new type of seal looks great!Airtel money hack trick
The info specifies two different seals -- a positive type that will fit normal valve guides without machining, and an umbrella type with a spring seal around the valve stem.
Either is better than the original or standard replacement umbrellas, and both are high temp silicone, which should be longer lasting. Umbrella seals may not have been any better in the 50s and 60s. Valves needed work sooner than they typically do today -- you got a valve job at K or less, and the seals were replaced.
Today we expect engines to last longer, and on collector car that don't get many miles put on them age is an issue. A daily driver in the 50s and 60s would get K on it in less than 10 years, and have at least one valve job by that time. Engines started lasting longer between valve jobs by the 70s, probably when hardened seats or induction hardened combustion chambers what AMC did to the sixes at least, not sure about late 70s V-8s became the norm. Just guessing here -- that would have been late 70s when unleaded gas became the norm though.
I do believe they were supplying junk for a while with the seals, like in the eighties. Engines I took apart in the sixties and seventies at a hundred thousand miles had seals that were burnt and hard but not crumbling into bits into the bottom of the oil pan after only twenty thousand miles.Goliath names
Also I never saw cams worn out like is happening to our flat tappet engines now. I just looked at a Chev from a 66 that probably was never apart that could have over a hundred thousand miles on it and aside from leaking all over the place from seals and gaskets the only appreciable wear seems to be on the camshaft.
From now on I will be using the oil that is supposed to be OK in these engines. I have yet to have a look at the valve seals but there are no traces of them in the oil pan.
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For new members. In The Beginning Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum.The simple answer is: A seal that fits around the valve stem and valve guide to prevent oil leakage.
The more detailed answer is: A valve guide seal, also known as a valve stem seal or valve seal, is located on the engine cylinder head inside of the valve springs. An automotive engine can have as few as 8 valves seals, or up to These are located on the intake and exhaust valves and have a pretty difficult job, as they need to allow some oil to pass so that the valve stem and guide receive lubricationbut need to prevent larger amounts of oil from entering into the combustion chamber to be burned.
When too much oil is burned the vehicle will consume oil, emit blue exhaust smoke and cause valve carbon build up.Cabin to be moved for sale mn
This is bad for the environment, and also the emission system on the vehicle. Depending on the severity of the leak the first thing you may notice is the engine oil level decreasing. The seal can also leak due to the vehicle being stored for an extended period of time.
Extended storage in particular causes drying and hardening of the seal which leads to shrinking and cracking, and consequently leaking. A few things can cause a valve seal to leak that is not the fault of the seal itself. The number one factor would be clogged oil drain back returns in the head.
These are passages that allow the oil that has been pumped under pressure to the cylinder head for lubrication, to be returned by gravity back into the oil pan. If these passages become partially clogged, oil will fill under the valve cover, actually submerging or flooding the valve seals in oil, and they were not designed to work this way. The usual solution for this is removing the valve cover s and running a wire down the return holes to clean them out.
This is labor-intensive and expensive. This product works in two ways to help solve most any valve seal type leak. Because of the Rislone multi-action formula, the solution has a custom additive package to work on any type of valve seals, no matter the type or material.
In most cases the valve seal issue will be repaired with a single dosage. But for best results and to prevent the problems from reoccurring, use with every other oil change.
Rislone Valve Seal has no particles to plug the leak. Instead, its technology relies on special polymers and seal conditioners to stop valve seal leaks permanently. Have you noticed that your car is consuming oil?The engine may still have good compressionbut will use a lot of oil.
High operating temperatures cause lower grade materials such as nitrile to harden and become brittle over time. Eventually, this can lead to cracking; loss of oil control and valve stem seal failure.
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When seals lose their ability to control the oil that enters the guide; they can cause a variety of problems. One of the most noticeable signs of worn valve stem seals will be just after a cold engine start. Especially if the vehicle has been sitting for any length of time or even overnight. The top of the cylinder head will be coated with residual oil; that was pumped up earlier during running operation.
The seal has also cooled during non operation; which causes it to contract and leave a small gap. When the engine first starts up; residual oil gets sucked down through the bad seal and into the combustion chamber. A large cloud of blue-white smoke will be seen exiting the tailpipe just after start-up. The burning smoke will disappear during cruising or highway speed.
Bad valve stem seals will show themselves during prolonged idling at stop signs or stop lights in congested city conditions. When the vehicle sits at idle for prolonged periods; high levels of vacuum at the intake manifold result. The high vacuum attracts oil in the heads to congregate around the valve stems.
Upon acceleration, the oil gets sucked past the seal and down through the valve guide.
replacing valve stem seals (only)
Huge clouds of blue-white smoke exit the tailpipe after each acceleration from a stop. Evidence of valve seals being compromised will also show up during off-throttle braking. More so when descending a steep downgrade where the accelerator pedal remains static. High manifold vacuum, coupled with the downward slant of the engine; oil collects toward the front of the valve cover.
Upon pushing the accelerator after a long coast; burned oil will exit the tailpipe in large amounts. After that the smoke will stop again. The accumulation of heavy, oily carbon deposits on the backs of the intake valves may cause hesitation and misfires. As carbon deposits build up compression may increase; to the point where it causes engine damaging detonation and or pre ignition problems.
Increased oil consumption due to worn or leaky valve stem seals will also increase hydrocarbon HC emissions in the exhaust.
Oil burning can also damage the catalytic converter because phosphorus in motor oil contaminates the catalyst. If oil is fouling the spark plugs; misfiring can cause HC emissions to soar. As a result, unburned fuel passes into the exhaust.MUCH of this entire article is my personal opinion. I DO have some other folks opinions here, and so identified. Contrary to popular belief that the Airhead valves are noisy due to excessive valve tip-to-rocker clearance, noisy valves are quite often the result of excessive rocker arm end-play due to improper end play adjustment.
On the stock valve gear models throughthe rocker blocks are usually slightly adjustable during tightening. Worn valve guides can lead to increased noise. Wear on the later needle bearings equipped rocker arms is usually very low.
Increasing loudness after warm-up is particularly so with the earliest pushrods, although that is a small part of the noise increase. There are rubber pads available to insert into the fins which do help some in reducing the fin-ringing.
I don't bother with the specification. Rocker end play must not be too tight. With the adjustment for valve clearance backed WAY off, the rocker must rotate smoothly through the entire rotary motion with no binding.
Do not mix up end play which is an up and down movement Proper torque on the 6 nuts is important. DO NOT use values of footpounds as published for some early models. Leaded fuel, use, implications, etc :. The amount needed for valve and valve seat protection is quite small, as you will see later, in this article.
You are extremely unlikely to be exposed to concentrated TEL. Especially high octane values were needed for supercharged or turbocharged or both engines in WWII. The original purpose for using tetraethyl lead was specifically for raising octane. Some of those aircraft engines required octane gasoline. This was so even when the lead TEL was sold expensively by the then monopolistic Ethyl Corporation, as the price was kept such that refineries found it cost effective to use.
Many decades ago, premium higher octane gasoline's for road vehicles were simply called "Ethyl". There is a lot more to that story, this is a very simplified version. Lead is not good for human beings nor animals nor birds, whether breathed in from the air, or by skin or other contact. It is particularly bad for young folks, as it has many bad effects, especially on the brain.
Octane-raising strengths of lead additives are responsible for short spark plug life. The problem is especially bad on valve guides, promoting wear.
Lead manages to get into the lubricating oil, mostly via piston ring blowby That is one of the reasons, back in leaded fuels days, that one should never get used engine oil all over your hands, besides the fact that the oil got contaminated by other things. Back then 3, mile oil change intervals were the norm. This is often still promoted today Imprecision of machining greatly contributed to the contamination of crankcase oil, because cylinders were either cast iron or iron or steel sleeves, and roundness and roundness stability over a temperature range was not easily capable of being anywhere's near the precision of today's vehicle cylinders, hence there was considerably more blowby.
Catalytic converters were not used on cars hardly at all to reduce some types of engine smog emissions; but were made mandatory for the model year and beyond, by the USA EPA. That this really happens is debatable.Tires often leak because of a leaky valve stem, which can release a small amount of air -- a condition that worsens in cold weather.
You may notice that one of your tires loses air faster than the others but shows no visible signs of damage, such as from a nail or screw. Repairing or plugging a leaky valve stem is not always possible. The best way to fix a valve stem is to replace it. Remove the valve cap and spray the area with window cleaner. Ensure that the window cleaner surrounds the base of the valve stem and pools up in the valve stem opening so that any leaking air will cause bubbles.
Bubbles come out of the opening of a damaged valve core; bubbles also may be present around the base or along the rubber of the valve stem. Replace the valve core by removing it with a valve core removal tool and inserting a new valve core. Tighten the core until it is firmly in place. Respray it to make sure it no longer leaks. This step applies to replacing a damaged valve core only. Raise the vehicle with a jack and remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench.
Set the lug nuts to the side.Valve Stem Seal Replacement - CntrlSwitch How-To
Remove the tire from vehicle and set it on a flat surface. Remove the valve core to release the air pressure. Break the seal between the bead and the rim. Place a pry bar between the lip of the rim and the bead and apply substantial downward pressure. Push the bead down until you have sufficient room to access the other side of the valve stem.
Clip the rubber base of the valve stem to make it easier to remove. Firmly grasp the valve stem outside of the rim with pliers and pull it free. Insert a new valve stem into the hole and pull it through in the same manner until it is fully seated on the rim.
Use an air pump to inflate the tire to factory specifications. Install the valve core if it was removed using the valve core removal tool. Spray the valve with window cleaner to ensure that it no longer leaks. Install the tire on the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts. Slowly lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the jack. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench to factory-recommended torque. Step 1 Remove the valve cap and spray the area with window cleaner.
Step 2 Replace the valve core by removing it with a valve core removal tool and inserting a new valve core.
Step 3 Raise the vehicle with a jack and remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench.Xsolla key
Step 4 Break the seal between the bead and the rim. Step 5 Clip the rubber base of the valve stem to make it easier to remove. Step 6 Use an air pump to inflate the tire to factory specifications. Photo Credits Ablestock.A leaking valve seal can contribute to damage or failure in your engine.
The most common leak is oil and it will be dark brown or yellow in color. If your oil level is low, you should check the valve cover and oil pan gaskets to see if there is a leaking seal. The valve seal leak can worsen over time, so it is important to stop it at the first sign of problems. Add an oil stop-leak additive to your engine for a temporary fix.
Add it in the oil filler tube, just as you would motor oil. An oil stop-leak additive is designed to give valve seals extended life by causing them to swell. The swelling of the seal may temporarily stop a leak. Use a high mileage motor oil. These oils have seal conditioners in them to stop or reduce leaks. The oil is designed to keep the valve seals soft and pliable in an effort to reduce corrosion that is caused by aging.
Replace the leaking seal. Remove the cover over the seal. Scrape away any buildup that has occurred on the area where the new gasket will go.
Put gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket if it is made of cork. If it is made of rubber, you will not need to apply the sealer. Position the new gasket into place in the spot where the old one was. Put the cover back on the new gasket and tighten the bolts. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Add an oil stop-leak additive to your engine for a temporary fix.
Step 2 Use a high mileage motor oil. Tip High mileage motor oil is for cars with over 75, miles. Warning An oil stop-leak additive will not stop a major leak or repair a broken gasket or seal. Items you will need Oil stop-leak additive High mileage motor oil New seal. References AA1Car. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
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